Day 3 Part 1

The Battery, with its pair of canon, (from yesterday's post). And to start Day 3- we couldn't have asked for more glorious weather, full sun with a cooling breeze, sunscreen essential. Romas and Vicky headed off early for another long hike while Peter and I set off a little later with our picnic.
We set off up the central track which runs the entire length of the island. At one time there were 400 acres of wheat being grown on the island but now only a few fields of hay are grown as winter feed for the sheep and ponies.

The plateau is typical moorland but as you travel north the soil thins to about an inch deep above the underlying granite and more of the rocks poke through. It does not take much visitor pressure for first the vegetation to be worn down, then it dies, the soil blows/washes away and the bare rock is left. You would think that granite is a very strong rock but on Lundy it very quickly breaks down to a gravel with pieces the size of a pea. Just right for painfully getting into your sandals.

At Halfway wall we followed the wall to the east coast where we could see and hear seals far below us. We watched several swimming along and hunting for fish in the seaweed. To see the basking sharks (2nd largest fish in the world) that inhabit the sea here you need to be further out in a boat.

Right at the northern point there was a large group of seals sunbathing out on the rocks. This lot (400ft below us) were also 'singing' as they jostled for the best positions.We found ourselves a sheltered spot at the top of the cliffs to eat our lunch and scan the sea birds with our binoculars. Next time we might have the sense to take an identification book with us as our identification skills are somewhat lacking.

After our picnic I left Peter at the top of the cliff and climbed down the many steps to the North Lighthouse. Nowadays it is fully automated so no-one actually lives there but the lighthouses are vital as Lundy sits in a busy shipping lane and many ships have been wrecked off its shores.

Down at the level of the lighthouse are the tracks of an old trolley system as this was an alternative landing site with the first stretch being vertically up the cliff pulled by steel hawsers the remains of which still dangle from the cliff. I knew that 3 people had gone down ahead of me so I looked for them and found some more steps leading down to the water's edge. These were not so well maintained as the lighthouse steps with most of the handrails rusted away. But the descent was worth it. Several seals were bobbing about in the water watching the people watching them. These people left after a while but I stayed and tried calling in the seals by whistling tunes to them. And it worked! as soon as I started whistling seal heads popped up until eventually there were 10 seals listening to me the nearest of which was about 20ft away.

It was a great photo opportunity, I didn't know I could whistle and take photos at the same time!

Just in the right hand corner you can see the seaweed that was fringing the rock I was sitting on.

Being so close I was able to get some good clear pictures.

And I love the way you can see down into the water and see the seal's body. Its front flippers were gently wafting to keep it in position.

I had written in the log book that I wasn't that excited by seeing seals as we often see them on our walks around Morte Point but never have I been able to get so close and get such wonderful pictures.

And at this point I shall leave you, dear reader, before attempting the 400ft of steps back up to the top of the cliff.

Day 2 Part 2

..........while I, after a refreshing cuppa, set off to walk along the west coast and look (unsuccessfully) for puffins. The 400ft cliffs are home to many sea birds but despite frequent scanning with my binoculars, the nearest I got to a puffin was a piece of rubbish in the sea that could have been a puffin floating on its back ? (not very likely) and groups of guillemots which are black and white like puffins but without the distinctive orange beak. They are both members of the auk family and a similar-ish shape. Last year's bird survey for the island only recorded 93 birds so they are few and far between. Lundy means puffin island in old Norse and there used to be thousands of puffins on the island. At every turn there was something interesting to see. It was so tempting to explore every little cove but some of them will have to wait until next time.

At Jenny's Cove there are some 100ft high rock formations known as The Cheeses. The crystalline structure of granite causes it to weather and crack into blocks that almost look as if they are the ruins of some ancient structure.

I include this rather odd picture with my foot intruding to give an idea of the scale of things. As mentioned before I do have a fear of heights. However there was something very comforting about the stability of the granite rocks and the fact that I was sitting on a flat surface leaning against a rock behind me drove out all fear. I sat for some time on this 'cheese', legs dangling, while looking for puffins. A little 'Oo-er' when my binoculars took me swooping down vertical surfaces to sea level but no fear. Later I was scrambling down quite steep grassy slopes above the cliffs to get to good vantage points from where I could scan for sea birds.

The central rock formation is the one I was sitting on/in! Behind can be seen Quarter Wall, one of 3 walls built before 1800. Guess the names of the other 2.

As I was hot footing back to the cottage my attention was diverted by this stone wall leading down and out of sight. Being of an enquiring mind (nosy), I had to follow the path, down and round it went becoming a set of steps that led to a ruined building nestling against the cliff.

Below that building were some more steps cut into the rock leading to yet another building with a canon on either side. (I did have a picture on the blog but have just deleted it by accident and can't get it on in the same place.) This is The Battery and the canon were fired when conditions were foggy to warn ships that they were approaching danger. Yet one more fascinating part of the island. It was then a long slog back up to the top and a brisk march back to the cottage. During my walk not only had I seen stupendous scenery and countless birds but I'd also seen many rabbits including black rabbits, Soay sheep, wild goats and wild ponies one of which came up to me for a sniff hoping for a free handout.

Our evening was spent in the Tavern, feasting on roast lamb, (prices were very reasonable). We had been eyeing up the desserts being served to other people in the Tavern so Romas and Vicky were going to share one (portions were generous) but couldn't make up their minds between the bread and butter pudding, a cross between a souffle and a loaf of bread and the chocolate tart so we ended up having both shared between 3 of us. You can put everything on your tab and you settle your bill at the end of your stay. The Tavern does not allow mobile phones or laptops and there is no electronic entertainment or music which is a refreshing change. However as it was the World Cup final an exception had been made and a tv projector set up in a back room for those who wanted to watch the football. Peter went off to watch while Romas, Vicky and I remained in the bar playing scrabble. The gig rowers had all gone early in the morning so there it was much less crowded than the previous night. We were not without entertainment as a girl brought out a fiddle and began playing folk music. She was sitting at a table with some of the island staff who with and without accompaniment began singing sea shanties and folk songs. In the lulls Romas and I contributed some Lithuanian folk songs though we did keep laughing when we couldn't get past the first verse and chorus of most of them. Vicky and Romas did join in with some of the English folk songs though quietly which I thought was a shame as they have good voices. At the end of the evening it was a dark walk back through the fields followed by some ponies and a foal, before rounding off the evening filling in the log book and being caught out by the 12.00 electricity cut off.

And finally, today was Green Man Day in Pilton, a street fair and festival dating back to Edward III. Peter and I went, saw lots of people we knew, listened to bands, bought food and plants and had a very sociable day.

Day 2 Part 1.

We woke on Sunday morning to a glorious day. Too good to stay in bed! I tried waking the youngsters by clattering around in the kitchen but it took the smell of sausages and bacon to bring them to life.Peter enjoying his 'birthday present'.

I had started my day with a coffee and a pre-breakfast explore of the neighbouring lighthouse. The lighthouse was built in 1819 but was found to be ineffectual because it was too high. The current light houses at either end of the island are built much lower down the cliffs.
The lighthouse was right next door to us. The upper floor of the adjacent building is also a rental property, apparently not as smart inside as Stoney Croft but with fantastic views. The lighthouse itself is open and you are free to climb the 96ft (at your own risk) to the very top for some amazing views.

The stone steps spiral up the hollow (and fairly dark) building with your footsteps echoing eerily. The tower was very reminiscent of Barad'ur.

The steps get steeper and narrower the higher you go and I was certainly glad of the metal handrail. The first time I climbed up I did wonder how I was going to make it back down again. As I'm not too good with heights I edged down backwards holding onto the rail with both hands and wedging my back against the outer wall.

At the top of the stone steps are 2 separate rooms, one above each other, that housed the motor the turned the light and the actual light itself. Both have been removed and for the adventurous there are 2 deck chairs to relax! in. It wasn't until my 4th climb that I was brave enough to step across the gap onto the central plate. I even sat in a chair though I didn't feel very relaxed.

I didn't have any problem with the metal walkway inside the window. It was too fascinating to look down on Stoney Croft and the rest of the island.

Looking back at the church, tavern and farm buildings with the Old Lighthouse visible just behind the church.

The youngsters went off after breakfast for a day of hiking around the island while Peter and I chilled out enjoying the peace and quiet before heading down to the shop (to buy milk and some tomatoes) and then carrying on southwards past the Tavern , into the church and then down to the castle ( part ruins and part rental property). The 13C castle on the southern tip was probably built at the time of Henry III, (there are few traces of an earlier 12C castle in the centre of the island.)

The blue skies gave the sea an intense blue colour. There were several yachts down in the bay and a few dive boats.

Looking down from the castle we could see the jetty, South Lighthouse and the path up from the beach. A peregrine falcon flew up near us swooping about and crying loudly.

It was such a relaxed feeling to be looking out across the quiet sea with the sun beating down and only the sound of the seabirds in our ears.

Old Lighthouse and Stoney Croft just visible on the horizon.)

We followed the cliff edge stopping to watch sea birds (shags) returning with fish for their young and spotting several seals in the water.

The view down the dramatic cliffs was so interesting, especially when we used our binoculars to watch the birds, that I started to lose my fear of heights. From this point we cut across to Stoney Croft. Peter spent the rest of the afternoon sitting out in the garden and studying while I .......

PS Back home we have had torrential rain yesterday and today. Not too good news as yesterday was St Swithin's Day. I do hope we don't have 40 days of similar weather though it is possible.

Lunday Day 1 Part 2

Although there are a few vehicles on Lundy the only way for visitors to get about is to walk. So your visit starts with the long walk from the landing beach up a rough track to the top of the island. (I ended up going down to sea level 3 more times before the last sad descent to leave the island and each time the 120m got easier.) Pulled up onto the beach were 8 gigs, we were later to find the Tavern filled to bursting with the rowers from gig clubs from as far away as the Scilly Isles who had all rowed across from the mainland from Ilfracombe. There were over 80 tents in the camping field.
There has been some concrete refurbishment of the track since we last visited but most of it is crunchy granite stones. We called into the Tavern to see if our accommodation was ready, which it wasn't, so we lolled around on the grass with some refreshment (tea & beer). The Tavern staff kept coming out to deliver delicious looking burgers & chips but we resisted as we had food in our luggage which would be waiting for us at the cottage. Eventually we went for a wander about to find our cottage. One of the charms of Lundy is the almost complete absence of any signs. You can't really get lost on an island that is only 3 1/2 miles long and it's not hard to read a map.

We marched a round about route to Stoney Croft, our home for the next few days. There are hardly any paths and you just have to make your way across the fields to get to your destination. While you are on Lundy you can wander almost anywhere you want. A paradise for walkers.

We were most impressed with Stoney Croft, clean, tidy and filled with comfortable antique furniture. This was our bedroom with lovely views towards the south of the island.

The small sitting room had the sort of armchairs that simply invited you to curl up in them with a good book. On the side table is the 'Log Book' in which you are invited to write about your stay. It was a fascinating read, so much so that I never got around to opening the book I had brought with me. For future visits I wouldn't bother bringing anything to read because as well as a fair selection of books (and games & puzzles) in the cottage there are many more in the Tavern. My blogging instincts kicked in and my daily entries were fairly comprehensive with Romas and Vicky adding their views as well. Some of the other entries were quite brief, many amusing and nearly everyone had fallen for the magical charm of the island. We are determined to return as often as possible and maybe even Christmas 2011 if we are still in the UK. It's not just money that is the limiting factor but actual visitor numbers are controlled to not interfere with the ecology of the island and some of the houses are booked for years ahead.

The kitchen was a fair size with basic amenities (no electricity between mid-night and 6.00). We all loved the pine Welsh dresser with its classy blue and white china. Previous log entries spoke of wild(ish) parties taking place here.

Once we had unpacked Romas, Vicky and I headed back down to the landing beach to watch the day trippers leaving on the Oldenburg. Now the island was truly ours.

It had been warm all afternoon and the sun came out turning the waters around the island amazing colours, deep shades of blue and green that we were to see so much of in the next few days.

The walk back up to the top of the island gave us a good appetite for our supper of tortellini after which Peter and I headed back across the fields to the tavern while Romas and Vicky went out for an evening walk. The gig rowers had filled the Tavern to the point where it was hard to even find a seat so after a while we walked back to Stoney Croft and ended our evening with some reading.

The Marisco Tavern with the church in the background.

to be contd........

Lundy Day 1. Part 1.

Having had such a wonderful 4 days on Lundy and taken 291 photos I've decided to let the trip run over this week's blogs as I would find it hard to pick out just a few pictures to illustrate this magical island. The Oldenburg nestled almost out of sight at the end of the jetty.
We sailed out of Ilfracombe on Saturday morning at the civilised hour of 10.00. It was my job to leave the car at the long stay car park on the other side of the harbour. Much anticipation at the start of our week-end away.


The tide was low leaving all the yachts sitting on the muddy looking sand. I had to march the whole way around the harbour to meet up with the others who were waiting on the jetty. Our luggage had already been loaded onto the boat.

Finally underway we were able to catch some new views of Ilfracombe. The 2 'cooling towers' by the beach are also known as 'Madonna's Bra' and are some architect's vision of a modern performance space!

Sailing around the coast we were able to see our favourite walks around Bull Point and Morte Point from a new angle. As we sailed out into more open seas the boat began to pitch and roll sending spray over those who like us had chosen to sit outside on the top deck. I had received a few funny looks from fellow passengers (day trippers who were dressed in summer holiday wear), when I put on an anorak, ex-navy gortex long jacket and scarf. Not surprisingly once we started to feel the full effect of the ocean spray the benches suddenly emptied as people headed down to the shelter of the cabin (& out came the sick bags!). The Oldenburg has a flat bottom to allow it to sail in shallow waters and this does not make it the most stable of vessels. One thing that was noticeable was the way people began to chat to each other (so un-British). We were standing with one couple who were heading for a diving week-end and another couple who were involved with the restoration of an old sailing ship.

Two hours, 24 miles and 1 rain squall later Lundy's magnificent 120m cliffs came into view.

The island is a plateau on top of magnificent granite cliffs with many indentations but few beaches. The N/S orientation means that the east coast is much more sheltered than the west coast which faces out to the Atlantic and each coast has a different character and provides very different habitats. Even up on the plateau there are fresh water pools, marsh land, heath and windswept rocky habitats.

There is only one place where boats can moor and for the passengers there is the steep walk up to the top of the island where most of the buildings are. (Lundy has been inhabited since prehistoric times and there are traces of Bronze and iron age settlements as well as many more recent buildings.)

Luckily for us there is a sturdy jetty built in 2000 which marks the visitors first steps on the island.

To be contd.....

So far this has been a fairly mundane photo journey but I promise some amazing and spectacular pictures to come.

And as for today, back to work to a different world, so much to do in the final week of school. I was a planning a late evening in my class getting things sorted when Peter turned up at school. Poor Vicky dropped our very sharp kitchen knife on her bare foot resulting in a trip to hospital, 4 stitches and a tetanus injection. She and Romas had been about to leave for the drive up to York when this happened but they are back here now as she can't drive until tomorrow. By the time we knew what was happening it wasn't worth going back to work and once this blog is posted I have plenty of school work I can do at home tonight.

I'm Back.

This is the briefest of posts just to say we are back from a magical 4 days on the Island of Lundy. I didn't talk about the trip before partly because it was a surprise birthday present for Peter (who does occasionally read this blog) but also in case there are evil people out there who have search engines that look for phrases like 'we are going on holiday' or 'we are going away this week-end' and then find out where you live and steal all your belongings. I took nearly 300 photos and will be posting lots in the next few days. Have to be up early tomorrow for work so off to bed now.

The Nest Fills Again.

It is a nice feeling to have some of the youngsters home again. Romas and his girlfriend Vicky are here and Vytas came over for a bit before returning back to his karate club friends for their final night barbecue. It has been overcast all day but very hot so it was pleasant to have our own barbecue at home.At work we have all been ultra busy at work in preparation for a visit by a senior education advisor. The pcs, photocopier and laminator have all been working at full stretch to produce veritable works of art on our walls, and all for a few minutes glance around our rooms! We got favourable comments but what a palaver. At home the Rambling Rector is flowering giving just a hint of what in future years should be a magnificent display all through the trees.

Romas and Vytas, like any pair of brothers , always greet each other with a sparring match. Vytas just failed to achieve his black belt grading but feels confident that he will get his black belt by Christmas.