A Walk From Cletwr ..... and Toilets.

At last I was back walking with my group of friends. A local walk this week starting at Cletwr, along the river, up the wooded hill with bird and dormouse boxes on the trees and back down the lane. We were lucky in that the promised rain held off until the very end though now it does seem to have settled in for the evening.

 

We usually take the footpath through this field and stop for our break on the rise with views out to sea but this group of large horses though very pretty were overly friendly and we had a dog with us. Instead we sat ourselves down on either side of the narrow lane to share biscuits and eat a snack before heading back down the lane to Cletwr.

Why toilets you ask? Don't worry this won't be scatological but I found the different toilets and hand washing facilities we came across in our travels quite interesting.

Being of an age when if there's a toilet available it might be worth paying a visit I became acquainted with a variety of facilities in different public places. And all were acceptably clean with the top prize going to the toilets at Knossos where a lady popped in and sprayed the toilet before each customer.

The first thing I noticed in the toilets in the main lounge area at Schiphol airport were the vast cubicle doors. They were at least 8ft high solid doors reminiscent of a bank vault. No chance of prying eyes something I found unnerving on our travels many years ago in a distant country (don't want to offend the inhabitants) where there were frequently wide gaps down the sides of the cubicle doors which were sometimes only 5ft high.

I'm used to a range of flushing methods, things to press or light sensors to hold your hand in front of but in one place (can't remember exactly which) there was a metal disc on the wall and a small sign above saying automatic toilet. ? Nothing to press or hold your hand in front of. Standing up from the toilet had no effect and I had given up and was going to apologise to the next person when I found that opening the cubicle door set off the flush. That was a new one.

On one plane coming back going into the toilet cubicle set off loud birdsong which was rather sweet.

Hand washing systems varied too. I'm used to taps which dispense soap and then water when you put your hand underneath but I came across one set of sinks where the air to dry your hands came out of the ends of the t-shaped bar water and soap came out of. 

Moving on to Spinalonga the island across from Plaka. During the Ottoman era or maybe earlier the prosperous merchants houses were built round a small internal courtyards with a toilet built in one corner.

Going back 4,000 years to the Palace of Knossos the queen's apartments included a separate toilet with running water. As a nearby guide explained to her group it is the earliest known flushing toilet. Well, if you were the queen of a mighty city state why not?

Kritsa Gorge.

This morning's warm wind got the first lot of washing dried but by the time the second machine load had finished the light drizzle had set in and it's been wet on and off ever since.

I generally feel more relaxed on Saturdays as I don't have any commitments for the day (but wouldn't life be boring if I had no plans for the week?). So as usual today has been a domestic day. 

After a late start recovering from yesterday's ride, I baked a Bara Brith, stewed the next lot of apples, got some paperwork done and planted three agapanthus that had been half price at Morrisons. I also did some diy, completing the lower half of my compost bin including a cover made from a saved piece of roofing rubber. Eventually there will be a top section for filling and the lower section will be the previous year's weeds composting away.

Now back to holiday stuff. 

The mountains of Crete contain some pretty spectacular gorges. 

Not too far from Agios Nikolaos is the mountain village of Kritsa home to 19 churches plus many tavernas and gift shops as it is a tourist hot spot.

The gorge is a little way outside the village and I was hoping it would be suitable for us to walk.

But unfortunately after climbing down some fairly steep steps to the then dry river bed,

the way led over a series of large boulders, 4-5ft high which were just too much for Peter. I climbed over them and went on a short way into the gorge to take photos but knew Peter would be fussing if I took too long. He has become quite a worrier in his old age.

At first we thought that was it for our walk but then saw the end of the return route which goes around the side of the mountain. Peter took some persuading that we weren't just marching across somebody's land and would have irate farmers shouting at us. In fact the Greeks have immense respect for older folk and will do anything they can to help you. It was only after we saw returning hikers that Peter agreed to take the track.

We had a fairly gentle climb up the stony path which gave us far reaching views across the mountains down towards the sea.

Below us were more olive groves.

By the time we decided to turn and head back dark clouds had gathered overhead and eventually thunder rumbled but no rain. However as we drove back to the city we could see where there had been quite significant cloudbursts across the road.

Riding Again.

It's been fairly warm today but with the ever present threat of showers.

Last week Iola asked if we would like an all day (7 hour) ride this week. Of course my friend Tanya said yes straight away but as only one other person signed up and the weather forecast wasn't good it was changed to a four hour ride. 

I have to say that seven hours might have been too much for much for my knees and back (especially after disco aerobics last night) but four hours was fine. It was a brilliant ride and we had hardly any rain which was a bonus. It was a new route for me going up the hill and over to Llanidloes before swinging round and back past Trawscoed. There was lots of cantering up grassy fields and then along the disused railway track to Trawscoed. No wonder there are always horse trailers parked in the car park at Black Covert Woods when I've been there with the walking group.

 

That's me in my high viz pink cycling jacket (Peter's comment was that at least they would be able to find me if I fell off), with Tanya in front.

Today I rode Cody, the dressage horse. He was a dream to ride with a very comfortable trot and I might admit to doing a lovely collected canter instead of trotting back through the final fields.

This time I dismounted safely, without landing on my bottom! and once the horses had all had a feed we led them out to the field.

Afterwards I did the usual shopping, not so much these days as we have freezers full of food which we don't get round to eating. And then I went to Charlies to try and get a new hat. Although my current hat was fitted when I bought it, it's always had a habit of tipping down over my eyebrows especially when I duck down to avoid overhanging branches. I've made adaptions to the lace up bit at the back and added extra foam inside but it's really getting on my nerves. Added to the fact that the hat I wore in Crete was so much better. Time for a new hat. I was hoping to get one with a little dial at the back that you use to tighten it up but no matter which hat I tried and how tight it was to start with it didn't take much to tip them forward. The poor lady was up and down her ladder getting every style and size but nothing worked. Next week I'll go to Wynnstay's on the industrial estate and see if they have some different makes of hat.

Kolokytha.

Another typical summer's day here with rain and wind.

In the morning I made a start on working out how to make a compost bin in the back garden using some small wooden pallets that I had brought home. They are just the right size to go in a little corner by the garage but first I had to mix up some cement and fill in a gap under some blockwork.

That done it was time to rapidly scan my Welsh course book before class having not done as much as I hoped on holiday. But when we logged on our tutor was having a family crisis. She'd brought her poorly son home from school and now he was considerably worse and she was waiting for the doctor to phone her back. We all told her to forget the class as a sick child is far more important. It was the last class of the year but she might do one next week instead.

Now for more walks in sunny Crete -

Having a car meant that we could drive out to Kolokytha (the island, as it is known locally) to walk in the unspoiled countryside. The circular walk is 7km and clearly marked though we did lose the track once.

Coming over the causeway (from the right) and negotiating the steep bridge that twists in the middle you come to a large car park. This was where I did my first practice drives to get used to the feel of the car doing figures of eight around the two windmills.

On our first walk we just went up to this chapel and had a short stroll on the dusty track before driving back over the bridge and stopping by the foundations of the drowned city of Olous.

The next time Peter wore his walking boots, less stones under his toes and better support for his ankles.

That time we followed the track around the eastern side of the island. In a way the scenery was reminiscent of Morthoe though a great deal hotter even with the breeze.

This chapel was higher up on the hill and we were happy to sit on the stone bench in the shade for a while. The many chapels we saw are all in regular use and well maintained.

From the chapel we worked our way down to a small sandy beach. There was a larger sandy beach further along which was a regular stopping place for cruise ships so quite busy.

We did our next walk on a very windy day. This time we set off round the west side of the island.

Walking along the beach we had sea spray blowing over us but then the path went inland and up.

Up, up, up a tiny and very rocky track made for donkeys.

The views got better and better the higher we went until eventually we could see over to the other side of the island. At that point we decided to go back rather than try and continue all the way round. 

On our last walk on the island we did manage to do the whole route. I have to be mindful of Peter's arthritis so he sets the pace and the distance. We're just thankful that he can walk at all having been told twenty years ago that he should expect to be in a wheelchair in a few years.

We took the eastward route marching up the easy track before the way became a stony path with painted markers on the gaps made in the old field walls.

Before turning back over the spine of the island we diverted to visit yet another chapel down by the sea. It was coming back from here that we lost our way for a little bit.

The gap between two hills looks a bit desolate but was actually full of flowers and birdsong.

The path became a bit of a rocky scramble as we skirted a bay in which were moored three yachts whose occupants were living a lavish lifestyle. 

Up above there were the remains of farm buildings and I'm guessing this was a threshing circle. A bit more uphill walking until we came to the high point we had reached before from where it was all downhill back to the windmills in the car park.

Local Walks.

As soon as the worst of the morning's rain was over I took myself down to the zoo for a spot of weeding. As I expected there were weeds everywhere. It took me four hours to to weed the gravel garden where the thrift is doing exceptionally well, pink and white flowers on all the plants I grew from seed. Some things like the lavender and santolina either didn't survive the attack of the goats or don't like the conditions while the stachys is holding on and last year's planting of ground cover sedum is filling out nicely. I also went over the paths in the grass maze. 

It's raining again and my legs are beginning to feel the effects of last night's kettlebells so I may not go to choir tonight.

Going to Crete in May meant that the hot weather was only just beginning with plenty of spring flowers which was better for us though not every day was a good day for spending the whole day on the beach. The water hadn't warmed up though for us Brits and Northern Europeans it was fine for swimming. I found I would start to get cold after half an hour of snorkelling but I still saw plenty of interesting fish.

Instead we did a lot more walking. This year Peter's knees and ankles were in a better state and he was able to do more walking with me.

The first longer walk we did was along the the headland which can just be seen as a pale line in the above photo. We walked outwards for an hour and a half which didn't quite get us around the headland but took us right out of sight of the village.

The track itself is not terribly exciting but gave us great views of Spinalonga (centre of the photo below) and Kolokytha (the island by Elounda) to the left and of course the mountains in the distance.

Another walk we did together was up behind the village heading inland.

Although there were a number of new developments creeping up the hillside the olive groves still gave a sense of rural life.

It's not a very long walk but great for just stretching your legs after lazing about on the beach.

Riding In Crete.

Here it has been a day of sunshine and showers. In the morning I had to go to town to the dentist. I was due a check up, £85 for a minimal look at my teeth and gums plus an x-ray of a tooth that broke while we were away. I wasn't too surprised as it was the only molar I could chew on and it already had a very large filling. The dentist said it was salvageable but would need a root canal filling and a crown. So instead I've opted to have the tooth taken out (£337!) and a lower denture which will be nearly £2,000! Private dentists in England charge less but here he's got a captive clientele. I always said I'd replace my broken denture once another tooth had to go so I guess now is the time. Now I have to wait until July until I can have the tooth taken out.

On a happier note, riding.

Of course riding was the highlight of my holiday. Not only because of spending time on horseback but also because we rode through the most beautiful mountain scenery on rough tracks through olive groves filled with flowers and birdsong and even the drive there was stunning.

After at least eight phone calls (not so easy for someone who doesn't like making phone calls and hates waiting for people to phone back especially when they don't.) I finally was able to book some riding for the last week of our stay as they were fully booked with riding holidays for the first two weeks. That at least gave me time to get used to driving. Next year I'll phone before we leave the UK. 

 

It was over an hour's drive from Plaka to the switchback that went to the top of the 400m mountain. From there the road gently dropped down onto the Lassithi plateau surrounded by the Dikti mountains rising to over 1,600m.

After passing through the villages of Mochos, Gonies and Avdou the last 2km were up the rocky track. This track is still classed as a public road and once a year before the annual festival at the Cave of Zeus the local authority makes some repairs by pouring concrete on the worst parts.

Having made it safely to Odysseia Stables, with neighbouring hotel and restaurant I walked down to the well appointed yard. There were other horses, some pretty arabs, turned out in nearby orchard fields but the riding horses each had a large loose box leading to individual outdoor spaces.

We were expected to groom our horses before tacking up and after the ride we untacked, picked out their feet, washed their backs and applied a tea tree rinse against the flies which were pretty dreadful. Having a constantly twitching horse was something I had to get used to when we were out riding.

This was my horse, Aria. 16.2, nice and reliable apart from not liking other horses behind her. That meant I had to ride at the back of the ride which as the family in front of me didn't speak much English left me with just Aria to talk to. 

That didn't matter so much as there was so much to look at all around. Most unusual were the 2-3ft high voodoo lilies growing under the olive trees. 

(Photo from the web.) 

The first day's three and a half hour ride was mainly through olive groves and up and down the mountains. 

On the second day with more cantering than the first day, we rode for five hours which included stopping for half an hour at Lyttos. an ancient city going back to iron age time which once covered 1,000 acres. There we met some archaeologists who were excavating some of the later roman ruins, a temple and a yet to be determined building.

In some of the places there were handy banks to use as mounting blocks but when I got off to go down a steep concrete section of track the guy leading the ride had to give me a leg-up, poor him. I'd chosen to lead Aria since even though the concrete was ridged it was still slippery for the horses. I kept thinking the going was much more suitable for sure footed native ponies but I expect some people expect full sized horses when they are paying for a riding holiday.

For the last half an hour of the second day's ride the mountain beside us was topped with dark grey thunder clouds and thunder echoed between the peaks. I counted the seconds after one dramatic set of forked lightening until the thunder rolled which put the storm as being 6 miles away. The horses took no notice and it didn't start raining until just as we got back to the yard. And stopped soon after. 

On my drive back down the mountain I came across this mare tethered in an orchard with her young foal running loose. That was after a shepherd with his three large dogs held back his flock of sheep to let me past. It's a completely different rural world up un the plateau.