Welcome to family, friends and visitors. Here you will find interesting (hopefully) pictures of my part of the world, news of our household and probably, long ramblings about anything that catches my interest.

Monday 22 August 2011

Lundy, Part 2

Each morning, whatever the weather, I would stride out to the Old Lighthouse and climb the 147 steps to the top. On Wednesday morning I was climbing the stone stairs which for the first part are an open spiral clinging to the edge of the open lighthouse, thinking evocative thoughts of Barad'ur, when I began to hear noises. I hadn't seen anyone at the top of the lighthouse before I went in and it was all rather strange. When I finally climbed the steep and narrow steps that take you to the top I saw that a bird had flown in and was trapped at the apex of the roof. Then the bird flew down, bumped into the window and kept jumping up at the glass. I was able to catch the bird by throwing my coat over it and then I had to take it down where it flew away unharmed. (I'm still not sure what kind of bird it was, it was speckled like a thrush only smaller but bigger than a meadow pipet.) Then I went back up the lighthouse to take in the view so that was twice as many steps that day. Later on we went on a rockpool ramble with Sophie one of the wardens. Surpisingly there were only a couple of children but about 10 adults. We found lots of different kinds of crabs, some of which nipped, fish, shrimps, prawns and saw but failed to catch a little lobster. We also found a sea urchin, brittle star fish and a colony of sea squirts. This was all down in Devil's Kitchen by the jetty and there were a couple of seals arguing over a rock and some more in the water watching us.


Even when the weather wasn't so good it was worth battling the wind to see the strange rock formations on the west coast which overlook the Atlantic Ocean.


All the grassy slopes are home to many rabbits who can be seen out at any time of day. The puffins (when in residence) and the Manx shearwaters use empty burrows to nest in.



The track up from the jetty in Landing bay is the only place that vehicles can get to sea level. We would sit in our cottage watching the day visitors trudging up from the Oldenburg and then later making their way back down for the trip back to the mainland.

This is Rat Island by the jetty, on the far side is Devil's Kitchen where we explored the rock pools and then later had another adventure.

The weather was always changing, the only thing you could count on was the wind though the direction varied from day to day.


On one of my walks I came back through the heathland part of the island where the heather and the low growing gorse made a glowing patchwork quilt of colour. At times when we walked through the flowering heather we would really be able to smell the sweet scent of the heather, which not surprisingly smelt like heather honey. On Thursday we went for a guided walk around the south end of Lundy with Nicola, another warden. Only 1 other couple turned up but that was great as we were able to ask lots of questions and find out a great deal about the wildlife, shipwrecks and history of Lundy.

My family are always teasing me about my dislike of the 20+ giant wind turbines that now dominate the country side here and I wasn't too thrilled to be able, on clear evenings, to see the turbines with the naked eye from our cottage. Worse than that there are plans, which will probably go ahead, for the Atlantic Array. This will be a vast number of giant wind turbines, covering an area the size of the Isle of Wight, which will be in the sea directly between Lundy and Wales. Apart from the visual impact there is the possible affect on sea birds and they will also create a great deal of underwater noise which may well affect the seals and the basking sharks. The immediate area around Lundy is a maritime reserve of the highest level with a no-take zone. This has allowed the sea-life to start to return to pre-fishing levels.


Friday morning the sun was blazing like a searchlight through the bedroom window so by 7.00 I was up and on my way to the lighthouse. From there I decided to stride out once more to the northern point of the island. I meandered in and out of all the little coves on the west coast where herds of the goats and soay sheep were enjoying the sun. From the northernmost point I took the direct track back down the centre of the island and arrived back for breafast at 9.30 having walked about 8 miles.



Later that day I had one of my most exciting and terrifying experiences of my life - the snorkel safari. There were about 10 of us snorkeling in Devil's Kitchen with 2 wardens. It was open to anyone and I was one of a few who hadn't snorkeled before. However I deliberately did not disclose the fact that I am a poor swimmer and have never swum out of my depth in the sea. Having first had a safety talk about the equipment and the seals who are likely to swim nearby and even nibble your flippers or mouth your legs - gulp! we went into the water in pairs. At first I was entranced with the shoals of fish and the sea weed forests, until I realised that the gullys were very deep which was a bit worrying. I then realised that I couldn't see my 'buddy' whom I rather hoped would be looking after me and I had a few scary moments getting the water out of my snorkel. At that point I did not wish to see any seals swimming close by and was truly thankful that the only one I saw was far below me. Eventually Peter reappeared, after swimming after the wrong person, and for the rest of the time I spent more time keeping up with him rather than enjoying the underwater scenery. We were in the water for nearly an hour and for the amount of fear I went through I feel very brave. I would like to do it again but first I intend to get my own snorkel and fins and practice in shallow water so that I can cope confidently with water in my snorkel, swim along faster and learn to 'sit' in the water with my head out so that I can sort out any problems without splashing about.
On Saturday we had to have our luggage ready for collection by 9.00 and be out of the cottage by 9.30 so I only had time to go up to the top of the lighthouse. There was a sea mist over the island and the lighthouse was totally invisible at 87 paces. This is the reason why the lighthouse was abandoned soon after its contruction and the northern and southern lighthouses built closer to sea level.

We boarded the Oldenburg at 11.30 in strong winds and had an uneventful journey back to Ilfracombe. We saw quite a few shearwaters skimming the waves but not dolphins. And that was the end of a wonderful week. Now we shall have to start saving up for or next holiday there.


On Monday I took Romas, Vicky and Alex to Lee Bay, a local beach which has more rock pools than sand though there is a sandy lagoon which is great for children. We clambered over the rocks investigating the rock pools, trying not to slip on all the seaweed. We then scrambled round to the next bay where the beach is made up of flat slate pebbles and lots of pinkish rose-quartz pebbles. Returning home we sat outside and ate the cheesecakes etc that the youngsters had brought back from our favourite cake shop in town. Then it was time to say goodbye to Alex who was returning to Telford and to make sure he hadn't catnapped Patch who was his favourite of our cats.

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